North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences is the largest institution of its sort in the Southeast and the state’s most visited museum, with over a million visitors every year. North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences North Carolina Zoo – dedicated team of experts provide exceptional, compassionate care to the more than 1,800 animals.Greensboro Science Center – center boasting a 12-acre zoo, an aquarium & a hands-on museum plus a theatre with a 40-foot screen.It’s A Zoo Life – has over 100 animals, including a zebra, camel, sloth, porcupine, lemur, kangaroos, wallaby, tortoise, alpacas, coatimundi, cockatoo, hedgehogs, ferrets, rabbits, pigs, goats, cow, sheep, peacocks, chickens, mini horses, and many more.Aloha Safari Zoo – family-run zoo featuring a wide array of animals, most of which have been rescued.North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences – exhibits on NC’s geology, flora & fauna, plus fossil collections, 3D films & live-animal programs.The top rated Aquariums/Zoos in Raleigh, NC are: The mod doesn’t have to do anything with the banding, it comes ‘out of the box’.North Carolina Zoo Raleigh’s Best Aquariums/Zoos: Note that the new model has a banding issue, as noted by Paul Hardwick, which mostly affects high gains. It doesn’t look good but it performs quite well. It is fitted to the rest of the box using 4 cable straps, connected to each other to form a rectangle. I used this material in order to avoid vibrations. I used pieces from from a sleeping pad and glued them together. I’ve had to open another hole as the speaker didn’t fit. Using the original connector is an easy way to have the CCD chip parallel with the image formed by the telescope. I opened a hole on the box and glued the connector there. I used a plastic box and the original lens connector of the camera. The USB +5V and GND can be obtained on the other side of the USB connector (right side of circuit board). Ii didn’t work because some probably some other components are powered through there so… DO NOT BEND it… Just bend the 2 pins indicated with the red circles. Through this pin the annoying white led is powered and I tried this as an easy way to get rid of it. DO NOT BEND the pin at the opposite site as shown in the photo (marked with X). Afterwards we’ll have to ‘bend’ the 2 pins indicated by the red circles so that they’ll not connect to the other side of the board We can get pads 8-13 and 10 just underneath the pins on the board (red circles). Having more space as I replaced the box, I arranged the components on a piece of breadboard. Below, I have some photos taken during the operation and the new fan-cooled case for the camera. Meijer’s webpage has an excellent tutorial on how to perform the modification. The crucial pins and their pads can be obtained from a far larger connector that connects the 2 parts of the camera board together. Having modified the older models, modifying the SPC900NC is a piece of cake. His original plans where used along with step-by-step help from m.m.j. The original idea of modifying a webcam for long exposures belongs to Steve chambers, whose web page is here. Note: I have transferred this article form my old site and some files are missing
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